Dekai and the Korowai

From Jayapura to Dekai

From Jayapura, there is only one daily flight to Dekai — and only one flight back. We flew to Dekai on 16 August. That date would later become surprisingly important.

Even before boarding, it was clear: this would not feel like a normal domestic flight. To travel to Dekai at all, you need a travel permit called a Surat Jalan.

Surat Jalan: a mandatory permit for travel in Papua

Papua is officially considered a sensitive region where armed conflict can occur. The government often describes these situations as disputes between different tribes. On the ground, however — and through what we experienced ourselves — it can also involve tensions between local groups and the Indonesian government or military.

You can usually obtain the Surat Jalan at a police station, for example in Jayapura or Sorong. We simply went to the first station we saw, greeted the officers in Indonesian, and explained our plan. They looked genuinely happy to help.

They only needed our passports and 100,000 Rupiah. Less than five minutes later, we had our Surat Jalan in hand. Meanwhile, we were standing next to a cassowary. At that moment, it really sank in: we were truly in Papua.

Arriving in Dekai: a reality check

With the permit in our bag, we boarded the plane to Dekai. The airport is tiny — more like a runway carved into the jungle. Right after landing, the military was already waiting.

It was a strange feeling. The soldiers watched us closely, immediately asked for the Surat Jalan, and then told us we needed to come to the local station first.

Dekai isn't a "town" in the way most people imagine — it's closer to a small village with fewer than 4,000 residents, deep in Papua's interior. From here, many tours to the Korowai normally begin. That was our plan too: find a local guide and start the journey.

Transport and the first warning signs

Within the first minutes, we noticed: everything works differently here. Prices are higher, and foreigners are rare.

We were quoted amounts that felt unrealistic. It wasn't even about negotiation — it was about the general situation. We also noticed that people watched us in a way we hadn't experienced elsewhere in Indonesia.

Still, we found helpful locals. One of them was a teacher named George.

A night hosted by a local teacher

George was a local teacher who had studied in New Zealand on a scholarship. His English wasn't perfect anymore — but his openness and generosity were. He invited us to sleep at his home. We had a tent and sleeping mats with us; in the end, we only needed the mats.

A practical note on accommodation in Papua

Many houses in Papua are intentionally built with open sections for airflow — gaps or partially open walls. The downside is mosquitoes.

Mosquito coils are common and are meant to smolder through the night. We used them too — and still, I later got malaria. We'll share more in our Raja Ampat report.

This isn't meant to scare anyone, but to underline that malaria risk is something you need to take seriously when traveling in Papua.

Dekai up close: between curiosity and uncertainty

Together with George, we explored the village. For the first time on our entire trip through Indonesia, I didn't feel truly safe. Eyes followed us everywhere.

George told us we were the first tourists in months. Armed pickup trucks drove through the streets — according to George, they belonged to local gold miners.

Still, we also had positive encounters. We spoke with locals and invited some of them for food.

A small spark of hope appeared when people told us the authorities might be exaggerating the situation — and that some tour guides allegedly pay fees to pass through. Even though corruption isn't an unknown topic in Indonesia, this did not feel like something we wanted to rely on.

That evening, we visited a Korowai family whose children had been sent to Dekai for school. We were told repeatedly that the Korowai village itself was safe — but also that the long boat journey there could be controlled by rebels.

17 August in Dekai: a quiet holiday

So we spent Indonesia's Independence Day in Dekai. Usually, this day is full of celebrations, games, and flags everywhere. Here, it felt completely different.

The only Indonesian flag we saw was on the grounds of the station. Many residents of Dekai no longer feel part of Indonesia, and instead wish for their own state — similar to Papua New Guinea.

Conclusion: two unforgettable days in Dekai

Even though we couldn't reach our original goal of visiting the Korowai, these two days in Dekai became one of the most intense experiences of our trip.

Not because of jungle adventure — but because of the reality on the ground: political tension, uncertainty, and the humanity we still experienced in the middle of it all.